旗袍樣式 Qipao Styles

Posted by Missuya on Tuesday 25 December 2018

Collar

The traditional qipao collar is stiff and stands up on its own, creating a sculptural effect that lengthens and accentuates the neck. 
High mandarin collar: May feel restrictive as you can feel the collar when turning your head. Very elegant look that elongates neck and back. Particularly flattering on thin-necked figures.
Medium mandarin collar: Allows for comfort and freedom of movement. Can be paired with any closure/sleeve style.
Low mandarin collar: Best with light colors or fabrics for a more casual, updated look. Comfortable and delicate in appearance.
Flared collar: Dramatic look that provides backdrop for curve of the neck.
Large flared collar: Very dramatic look that provides backdrop for curvature of the neck, chin and shoulders.

 

Sleeve type
Sleeve can be broadly divided into the sleeveless, short sleeve, three quarter sleeve and long sleeve, it was mainly determined by weather. But nowadays women will wear it to attend the banquet, party, even as casual dress and in a variety of occasions. Younger women usually choose the first three, while the elderly were selected long-sleeved. Usually short-sleeve is four inches long, three quarter sleeves are about 16 inches, while the long sleeve is 19 to 20 inches.

 

The type of flower button
Flower button is the button under the Qipao, the role of the button is the same like the modern shirt today, but it is more fancy and beautiful hand-made with a cloth woven. There are several hundred button styles, such as butterflies, paragraph, diamond, large flowers, etc.

 

Front Piece (Lapel) style

Type of lapel styles: single-breasted, double breasted, straight lapel, slant, pipa lapel, music lapel, wishful lapel and no lapel. 
The lapel is only for decoration, so wearing a double breasted or single breasted costumes are the same, but double-breasted costume is visually more beautiful and noble. 
Round lapel - smoother flowing lines;
Straight lapel - round face female fit this model, can appear slender body
Side lapel - suitable for different facial wear.

 

Slits
In fact, the Qipao is mainly highlight the beauty and elegance of women.
Wearing Qipao with slits will make the mobility of women more smooth and graceful, thus can display women's modesty, softness and beauty. Like Chinese women's temperament, Qipaos are elegant and gentle.

 

Embroidery
Embroidered designs made Qipao more beautiful and special. The traditional designs are often embroidered dragon and phoenix, peony, peacock and other designs, the implication behind is mainly elegance, luck and prosperity.

 

Accessory
When wearing Qipao it must be equipped with high heels as flat shoes do not seem as beautiful. High heels are able to show the noble spirit of the Qipao, and ideally it must be matched with stockings.
Handbags or hand purse are a good match. 
There is no specific hair type or style, but most women are like her hair to be styled and neat.

旗袍的樣式很多,開襟有如意襟、琵琶襟、斜襟、雙襟;領有高領、低領、無領;袖口有長袖、短袖、無袖;開衩有高開衩、低開衩;還有長旗袍、短旗袍、夾旗袍、單旗袍等。

 

旗袍款式的變化主要是袖式、襟形的變化。

 

【袖形】

袖形的款式主要有:寬袖形、窄袖形、長袖、中袖、短袖或無袖。

【襟形】
襟形款式主要有圓襟、直襟、方襟、琵琶襟等: 
圓襟旗袍禮服——襟處線條圓順流暢; 
直襟旗袍禮服——身材豐滿、圓臉型的女性適合這一款式,可使身材顯得修長;
方襟旗袍禮服——將襟部進行了大膽的改革,適合不同臉形穿著。 
琵琶襟旗袍禮服—— 
此外還有雙圓襟旗袍、雙開襟旗袍等款式。

 

【領子 】   

一般領、企鵝領、鳳仙領、無領、水滴領、竹葉領、馬蹄領。 

 

【材質】
制作旗袍的有佈料,絲綢、錦緞等,目前又有真絲雙縐、絹紡、電力紡、杭羅等真絲織品。

 

【色彩】
常見的大紅旗袍,色彩絢麗醒目,款式別致,充分展現出中華民族悠久的歷史文化,著重體現東方女性含蓄優雅的魅力。



【圖案】
現代常見的旗袍圖案為織錦緞,配以傳統的中國紋飾如雙魚、富貴花、梅花等,還有以中國水墨畫手法描繪的花卉圖案設計的手繪旗袍。 

 

 

【盤扣】
旗袍上的扣子是盤扣,它的製作方法主要是用稱為“袢條”的折疊縫紉的布料細條編織而成。這和現代用整塊硬質材料打洞而成的紐扣不一樣。如布料細薄可以內襯棉紗線。做裝飾花扣的袢條一般則內襯金屬絲,以便於定形。
盤口作為一種傳統的服飾手段又風靡一時。長袖盤扣、短袖盤扣、對襟盤扣、斜襟盤扣……就連后開衩的直筒連衣裙也綴上了幾顆盤扣,恰似一隻隻欲飛未飛的“蜻蜓”。
盤扣的種類很多,常見的有蝴蝶盤扣、蓓蕾盤扣、纏絲盤扣、鏤花盤扣等。盤扣還是那個盤扣,但綴在不同款式的服裝上卻表達著不同的服飾語言。立領配盤扣,氤氳著張愛玲時代的含蓄和典雅;低領配盤扣、洋溢著90年代都市女性的浪漫和嬌俏;短坎長裙中間密密地綴一排平行盤扣,於端麗之中見美感;斜襟短衫綴上幾對似花非花的纏絲盤扣,於古雅之中見清純…… 形形色色的盤扣中尤以古老的手工盤扣最為精巧細致,它融進了制作者的心性和智慧,有著極高的審美價值。
   

 

 

資料參考:旗袍百科 / wiki 互動維客

 

 

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