旗袍襟型 Qipao Front-Piece

Posted by Missuya on Tuesday 25 December 2018

Traditional Chinese gown-style dresses adopted the open front-piece since the Shang (1782-1046 BC) and Zhou (1046-476 BC) dynasties, mostly at the right lapel.

 

The style of Qipao refers mainly to the change of the shape of its front piece, sleeves and collar. If the button is in the middle, it is called the Opposite Front Piece; button on the right it is called the Right Front Piece; button on the left it is called Left Front Piece. Common shapes of the front piece of Qipao include RuYi (如意pinyin: rúyì ,a S-shaped ornamental object, usually made of jade and a symbol of good luck) shape, Large Round shape, Square shape, Straight shape, Two-side shape, Oblique shape, Curved shape, Medium to Long shape, Pipa (琵琶 pinyin: pípá, is a four-stringed Chinese musical instrument - lute) shape and Double-circle shape .

 

 

中國袍服從商(西元前1782年-1046 年)、周朝(西元前1046年-476 年),開始就習慣使用開襟型式,而且大多數是右衽。

 

旗袍做為服飾中款式的一種,經久不衰,作為一種文化也可謂久遠流暢。按照不同的分類方式,其樣式也是很多。旗袍的的變化,主要是襟型、袖式和領型的不同。

旗袍上的襟是指除去了袖子,前面的那一片。開襟,即襟是分開的,紐扣在胸前的叫‘對開襟’,在右側的叫‘右開襟’, 在左側的叫‘左開襟’。

襟型款式主要有如意襟、大圓襟、方襟、直襟、雙襟、斜襟、曲襟、中長襟、琵琶襟、雙圓襟。 

 

 

 

Ruyi-shaped Front Piece 如意襟

Ruyi is a Chinese ornamental object symbolizing good luck. With a head shaped like a ganoderma or a piece of cloud and an S-shaped handle, Ruyi served as a sort of wand or an article for admiration.

如意襟

“如意” 是華人一種象徵祥瑞的器物,頭部為靈芝型或雲型,柄微曲,供人指劃或玩賞。富有韻味的傳統衣襟方式。

 

  

 A RuYi during Qing Dynasty, Length 40.3cm   清代中期,紫檀嵌玉八卦如意,長40.3cm。

 

 

Large Round Front Piece 大圓襟

It is a round smooth shape.

大圓襟

襟處線條圓順流暢,是現代旗袍常見的開襟方式。

      

 

 

Square Front Piece 方襟

The square front piece contains round shapes. It is reserved and full of changes, suitable for women of various features.

方襟

方中帶圓,含蓄內斂,又富於變化,適合不同臉形穿著。

     

 

 

Straight Front Piece 直襟

Qipoa with straight front piece will make the body look more slander. It is suitable for women with a round face and a plump figure. The straight row of frogs has a strong decoration effect.

直襟

身材豐滿、圓臉型的女性適合這一款式,可使身材顯得修長。直襟的一排扣具有很強的裝飾性。

   

 

 

Two-side Front Piece 雙襟

Two sided front piece gives a balanced and symmetric sense of beauty, it is graceful and magnanimous and suitable for middle-aged and elderly women.

雙襟

雙襟給人均衡,對稱的美感,端莊大方,適合中老年人女性穿著。

 

 

 

 

Oblique Front Piece 斜襟

The oblique front piece runs from collar to chest, a classical taste and most common style for Qipaos.

斜襟

從領口斜劃過胸前的衣襟款式,具有古典韻味,是常見的開襟方式。以前的斜襟旗袍會配大花紐,現代旗袍改用較細的花紐。

 

     

 

 

Curved Front Piece 曲襟

The curved front piece looks like an S with edges and corners. With a large opening, it is easy to put on.

曲襟

曲襟的型狀像棱角的’S’,開口較大,容易穿著。

 

 

 

Medium and Long Front Piece 中長襟

An obscure arc comes down from the collar band. Avoiding the chest, it extends all the way to the waist. A row of asymmetric frogs is arranged on the body side as decoration.

中長襟

從領口斜劃出一個不很明顯的弧形,避開胸部,一直延伸至腰部,身側配以一排不對稱的花扣,做為裝飾。

      

 

 

Pipa-shaped Front Piece 琵琶襟

The large front piece only covers the chest and does not reach the armpit.

琵琶襟

吸取了清末琵琶襟馬甲的開襟方式,形式略有變化。大襟只掩至胸前,不到腋下。鈕扣自大襟領口釘起到立邊下方,排列較密。

 

  

 

 

A Double-circle Front Piece 雙圓襟

The double-circle front piece is beautiful and varied in shapes. It is different from the mature and prudent round front piece.

雙圓襟

雙圓襟俏麗多姿,不同於大圓襟的圓熟穩重。

 

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