Qipao: Age & Body Type 旗袍穿著:年齡與體型

Posted by Missuya on Tuesday 25 December 2018

 

Qipao is the most suitable clothing for Oriental lady, because it takes the focus of the closed high collar that looked elegant and dignified, and the whole design is structured from top to bottom. Since there is no overlap of any fabric and unnecessary decorative items like pockets, it looks simple, neat and tidy. 
Qipao has slits on both sides that allows an easy step when walking, thus give a lively feeling. Especially with closed fit design that follows body line, Qipao is able to reflect the graceful nature of women regardless of plump and slim, tall and short.

Women wear Qipao in important occasions not only able to display the beauty of the female, but also carry with Chinese ethnic style. Qipao relates closely with the human body, people with different body line are matched with different styles and colours, in order to accentuate the positive and downplay the areas of body that are not so perfect.  Therefore when choosing a Qipao, age, season, body shape, and other aspects are to be considered.

 

 

旗袍,是東方女性最適合的服裝,因為它採用緊扣的高領,顯得雅致端莊,上下結構嚴謹。看上去沒有任何重疊的衣料和不必要的帶袢與口袋裝飾,顯得簡潔明快、乾淨俐落。旗袍兩旁開著高高的衩口,穿著者跨步方便,給人以活潑而輕快的感覺。尤其是貼身合體、線條流暢,即使是“燕瘦環肥”的體形,也能體現出女性婀娜多姿的特性。

旗袍比較適合中華女性清瘦玲瓏的身材特點,而且可以“中西合璧”,因而“變化多端”。旗袍的樣式很多,開襟有如意襟、琵琶襟、斜襟、雙襟;領有高領、低領、無領;袖口有長袖、短袖、無袖;開衩有高開衩、低開衩、無開衩;還有長旗袍、短旗袍、夾旗袍、單旗袍等。目前的旗袍在剪裁中都加入了很多西式剪裁方法,從而使旗袍更合體、更實用,堪稱中華女性別具一格的特色服裝。

女士在一些涉外重要場合穿旗袍不但能顯示女性的美,而且更具有民族風格。旗袍與人的體型關係密切,不同身材的人,要配合不同的款式、花色,突出自己的優勢,掩飾自己的缺陷,才能將自己襯托得更加儀態網萬千。因此選擇旗袍,要從年齡、體形、季節等多方面考慮。

 

 

 

AGE

 

Older Women:
Fabric colour should be a little dark, a bit more loose style to reflect gentle and elegance.

 

Middle-aged women: 
Richly elegant colours should be selected, as well as with embroidery to reflect the elegance.

 

Young women: 
Choose a bright, fancy, beautiful colour and lively style to reflect youthful and vibrant characters.

 

年齡

 

年齡大些的婦女:
面料顏色應稍深些,款式要寬鬆一點,以體現莊重文靜、典雅大方。

 

中年婦女:
宜選色彩富麗高雅,乃至繡花、滾邊的旗袍,體現雍容華貴。

 

年輕女性:
則宜選用絢麗優美的色澤花式、活潑俊俏的款式,體現青春健美,朝氣勃勃。

 

 

 

 

Figure/ Body Type

 

Petite Type
Body which is proportion can choose solid colour, or ‘Top light Bottom dark’ colours to cover up the figure flaws. If top and bottom of figure is not proportion, it is recommended to select higher waist line design. Straight lapel and vertical line patterns are a good choice for petite women as it gives a visual effect of slender feeling.

 

Tall and Slim Type
The body contour of slender limbs is not obvious, therefore it is recommended to select light colour, large-scale patterns with body curves design in order to look plump. If it is the horizontal patterns it will look even more plump. Top light and bottom dark colour will give a steady feeling, and on the contrary will become top-heavy, and uncoordinated.
Tall people wearing long Qipao looks very elegant, and short Qipao is to show the slender legs; but avoid too short, or otherwise they look like on the stilts. Also avoid high heels to emphasize on height; classic flat or low heeled shoes will be more suitable.

 

體形/體態

 

嬌小型
身材均稱,比例協調的人可以選擇純色或可以掩蓋缺陷的‘上淺下深’顏色。上下身不協調則建議高於真實腰位的款式。
直襟或豎線條款,有視覺的修長感,是嬌小的女性不錯的選擇。

 

瘦高型
因為四肢纖細,曲線不明顯,建議選擇淺色、大型花紋且曲線豐富的旗袍,看起來會豐滿一些。如果橫向的花紋,會顯得更為豐滿。顏色上淺下深,給人穩重的感覺,反之會顯得頭重腳輕,不協調。
穿長款顯得優雅,短款則展現修長的雙腿;但切忌太短,否則有如在踩高蹺。
避免穿過高的高跟鞋強調身高,經典平跟或矮跟鞋更適合。

 

 

 

 

Plump Type 
For this body type, the colour of Qipao should be dark not light, patterned with vertical stripes as well. Horizontal stripes and big designs will have enlargement visual effect. 
For pear-shaped women with full hips and thighs, the dress shouldn't be shorter than an inch or two above the knee. 
If you are apple-shaped with a thick waist, you need to elongate the appearance of your torso and draw the attention away from your waist. Select a dress with an empire or drop waist to re-define your waist line.
To draw the attention away from your lower body, select a Qipao with a plunging V-neck, halter top or embellished neckline. A deep V-neck not only can have an elongated face, and the neck appear more slender.

 

Plus Size 
Most online shops and boutiques do not supply 'plus size' size Qipao, therefore it is recommended to go for tailor-made.

 

豐滿型
一般身材略胖,顏色宜深不宜淺,圖案以豎條紋為佳。橫條紋或大圖案有放大的效果。選擇深V領,不僅可以拉長臉型,使脖子看來更修長。

 

過於豐滿型
一般的網上或專賣店的旗袍,尤其是改良且修身旗袍都少有供應‘特特特大XXXL’尺碼,建議量身訂做。

 

臉寬、脖子粗短型:
不適合的旗袍裝束有:
一字領、圓領、領口綴層疊花邊的改良旗袍、橫條紋的高領、穿旗袍繫圍巾,因為這些會突出橫向感,視覺上夸大了臉寬頸短的缺陷。
最好穿尖領(V領)、矮領、無領旗袍,領口開得略深,即可淡化‘寬’‘短’的缺陷,又可以在視覺上引長臉型。

 

 

 

Wide Face, Stubby Neck Type:
The following are not suitable:
Straight collar, round neck, modern Qipao with layer of laces, pinstriped high collar, wearing Qipao with scarf or shawl as these will highlight the horizontal sense, visually exaggerate the flaws of wide face and stubby neck. 
Best to wear v-neck, low collar, collarless Qipao with slightly deep neckline as these can cover the flaws of face wide and stubby neck in order to give a visually ‘long face’.

 

Elongated Neck Type
Mandarin collar is still the ideal choice. It is best to choose high neck, square collar Qipao; bar patterns and colours like red and yellow light. Matching with scarf or shawl can increase the wider visual effect and the body appears to be plump.
People with too thin neck, wearing high collar or V neck collar will expose the flaws of neck. Therefore it is to choose slightly shorter collar such as square collar and round collar Qipao.

 

脖子細長、瘦削型:
仍以立領為美。最好選擇高領,方領等款式旗袍,圖案最好選擇橫條圖案,顏色上最好選紅、黃燈。可以搭配圍巾做點綴。如此能增加寬度感,視覺上會顯得體態豐腴。但脖子太細長的人,穿高領或領口長而尖的款會暴露出脖子的缺陷。因此要選領子稍微矮款如方領,圓領的旗袍。

 

窄肩、溜肩型
此型往往顯的單薄,不宜穿無袖、露肩的款式。應多選擇肩部與袖子有裝飾的款,高領、圓領、U型領可轉移視線。
可利用絲巾或披肩來修飾肩線。

 

 

 

 

Qipao with a shawl

 

Narrow and Slanting Shoulders Type 
This type is often obvious thin and should not wear sleeveless, off shoulder styles. Should have choices of shoulder and sleeves with decoration, high collar, round collar and U-collar to draw away attention of shoulder..
Scarf or shawl can be used to redefine the shoulder line.

 

Wide Hips, Small Waist Type
This is the most typical oriental Lady body line. To choose design that emphasizes the waist line and it is best to dress modern Qipao with flared bottom.
Matured women can choose large flowers patterns, and design with laces can increase the lasting charm of matured women. For young girls, the patterns can be floweret, small check and so on.

 

Not too Tall Type
Choose Qipao with vertical lines in the center in order to give a visual sense of slender. With a pair of high heel or semi-high heel shoes, this style will make the figure looks more slender.

 

胯寬、腰細型
細腰胯寬是東方女士最典型的體型,選擇強調腰線的版型,最好是裙身向下略帶喇叭型的改良旗袍。
成熟的可選大花妍圖案,有蕾絲的增加成熟女人的韻味;少女型的圖案可選擇小花,小格子等。

 

身體不太高型:
可以選用旗袍中間一道豎的線條,給人在視覺上產生修長感。這個款式把旗袍的長度延伸到腳面,再穿上一雙高跟或半高跟皮鞋,看上去更加顯得修長了。上體貼身束腰突出線條,而下體略加寬綽形長裙,既富有民族風度,又具有西方禮服的風采,增強時代感。

 

 

 

參考資料:
1. 旗袍百科網 http://qipao.baike.com
2. 百度知道網 http://zhidao.baidu.com/
3. 中國台灣網/服裝禮儀 http://big51.chinataiwan.org/tsh
4. 大紀元網/旗袍穿著有講究 http://hk.epochtimes.com
5. <旗袍>唐光艷編著

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