Mandarin Jacket 唐裝簡介

Posted by Missuya on Friday 19 July 2019

Tangzhuang (Chinese: 唐装; pinyin: tángzhuāng; literally "Chinese suit") refers to the Chinese jacket that originated at the end of the Qing Dynasty (1644–1911). Tangzhuang evolved from Magua (马褂), a Manchu clothing, which was in turn adopted by the Han Chinese during Qing Dynasty. At that time, only noblemen, aristocracy and government officials were wearing it, however, in modern times it was eventually adopted by common people. This kind of clothing is often seen as a national costume for men, although women wear it as well.

 

唐裝是中國的一種服飾,字面意思是指唐代的服裝,現多指類似滿族馬褂而吸收西式裁剪的服裝。唐代的服裝是以漢服為主,特徵是交領、右衽、系帶、無扣。而現今常稱為「唐裝」的服裝是從清朝時期的滿族服飾馬褂發展而來,特點是立領、對襟、盤扣,並吸收了一些西式裁剪的特點,如在肩膀部接袖等。唐代服裝和現在的「唐裝」式樣截然不同且毫無關係。

因為清朝的剃髮易服政策強制被統治的人民穿着長袍馬褂,因而這種長袍馬褂式的服裝經常被認爲是中國傳統的民族服飾。

辭源
「唐裝」一詞,早年為海外華人所創。唐代盛期聲譽遠播,海外各國常稱中國人為「唐人」。[1]華僑也常常自豪地自稱為唐人。因此,華人居住區稱為「唐人街」,唐人(華人)的服裝稱為唐裝。
此詞原在歐美華人社區以及港澳地區較為流行,台灣則又稱為漢衫。1996年保釣行動中遇溺的方裕源在由日返港時,便欲在當地購買「唐裝」穿上以表明中國人的立場。到1980年代,因改革開放粵港交流頻繁,廣東也開始受香港影響而使用「唐裝」這個名稱。而自2001年APEC會議裝採用「唐裝」後,這一說法才在中國大陸廣為所知。

 

 

In fact, “Tang suit” is basically the Chinese Qing Dynasty dress, “Tang suit,” saying the origin, but also some “turn domestic exports,” the taste of foreigners called “Chinese Street” to “Chinatown”, naturally the Chinese garment called the “Chinese style costume,” the .“Tang suit,” the title actually comes from overseas. Tang Maximum, reputation far and overseas, after the Chinese were called overseas countries because of “Chinese.” “History of the Ming Chuan foreign Zhenla” Words: “Chinese who, Zhu Fan (foreigners) also known as the Chinese call. All overseas countries have entirely.” In the U.S., Southeast Asia and even Europe, the Chinese residential area, and therefore called ” Chinatown, “while claiming to Chinese overseas, precisely because the Chinese people since ancient times to the Tang Dynasty is proud dynasty. Seizing Chinatown Chinese Style wearing traditional Chinese clothing is called “Tang suit,” not only logical but also long been used overseas to become known as the internationally recognized title of the Chinese people. In the early 20th century, at the time, “Western clothing go hand in hand” in the context of society, Guangdong, Hong Kong and Macao compatriots around is to “Tang suit,” “suit” to distinguish the Western dressed. In the 2001 Shanghai APEC meeting, China, as host, please come to participants of the Asia and Pacific economies, the leaders of the wear, “Tang suit,” which set off by the harmonious celebration of the “style costume” fashion, it is not only the traditional and the modern integration, but also the inevitable epidemic law, it is the status of China in the international community and the embodiment of grace.

 

Tang suit from the time the source was close, it is easier to re-integrate into our lives. For example, wearing a Tang suit jacket, also accompanied by trousers, shoes,kung fu shoes,coat the outside to cover, which lined high collar shirt … … Tang suit revival of this nature is outside the cultural aspects of the practical factors, but this factor is not in the same epidemic or missing. Is because of this, really big robe worn by the Tang Dynasty sleeve, or even closer to us in the Ming Dynasty robes, it is basically not likely to return to pop. Their return may be through another form, that is, elements.

 

APEC heads of state meeting, according to Tang suit worn by the main designer of Miss Yu Ying said, the Tang suit should be a generic term for Chinese clothing, had to design good clothes, all of you to discuss the suit is named for, and finally decided to name this clothing ” Tang suit or cheongsam. This is mainly because foreign countries have said the Chinese living in the place as “Chinatown”, that “Chinese” clothes naturally, should be called “style costume” was. In addition, some foreign and overseas Chinese have a say Chinese clothes for the “Tang suit,” saying Therefore, the name Tang suit is also quite international flavor.

 

At the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation summit in Shanghai, China in November 2001, the host presented its silk-embroided tangzhuangjackets as the Chinese traditional national costume.

 

Apec 2001 Shanghai Official Attire

2001年APEC會議(上海)代表服飾

 

Apec 2011 at Singapore

2011年APEC會議(新加坡)

 

Now in Chinese communities, the Mao suit, the western suit, and the Tang suit are main formal dressing for men in many occasions. Tangzhuang is made in different colors, most commonly red, dark blue, gold and black. One common design is the usage of Chinese characters (Hanzi, 汉字) as monogram such as Fu (福,'happiness' in Chinese) , Shou (寿, 'longevity' in Chinese) to spread good luck and wishes.

Source: Wikipedia

 

2001年APEC會議在中國上海舉行,東道主中國國家主席江澤民以「唐裝」的名義贈給各與會國元首、為代表中國式樣的服裝,乃由服裝設計師余鶯所設計,最初取名為「新唐裝」。當時所設計的「唐裝」式樣以馬褂為基礎,在肩膀處接袖並有墊肩,面料和工藝則採用了環保型的傳統織錦緞和天然真絲,使用環保型染料印染,團花織錦緞外套,手工滾邊、盤花鈕,團花圖案是中國國花牡丹圍繞的「APEC」字樣。此後這種式樣的服裝一度在大陸和海外華人中流行,成為新年等節慶時的流行服裝,並出現許多變種。 
評價一部分人認為,現在所謂的「唐裝」是採用西式剪裁的馬褂,與唐朝完全沒有聯繫,使用「唐裝」的名稱不合適。唐裝的提法,廣義的應該是華人服裝的總稱,狹義的應該是唐朝的服裝,無論哪種都不應由滿族服裝來代表。馬褂具有濃厚的滿族特色,歷史較短,不足以代表中國各個民族和幾千年的歷史傳承。從歷史上看,漢服是中國明朝滅亡以前的主流服飾,傳承了近4000年,因為清初的「剃髮易服」令,才非正常消亡,而滿裝的歷史只有三百來年。從民族上看,馬褂只能代表滿族,不能代表中國的多民族。作為華人服裝總稱的唐裝應包括中國的主流民族服飾,而不只是2001年APEC會議裝的樣式。2001年APEC會議上的「唐裝」實際是滿裝,名稱也應改為「滿裝」。

參考資料:維基百科,自由的百科全書

 

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